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Neapoli and Exarchia sit just north of Kolonaki and west of Lycabettus Hill. One is quiet, neoclassical and residential; the other is the city’s bookish, argumentative, street-art-covered quarter. Between them is the Athens that Athenians live in.
Exarchia has long been the home of students, writers and artists. Its streets are lined with independent bookshops, record shops, galleries, bakeries and tavernas, and its walls are a changing gallery of murals. On Saturdays the farmers’ market takes over Kallidromiou Street, and the neighbourhood does its shopping on foot.
Neapoli, beside it, is calmer: neoclassical apartment buildings, corner cafés, and the slopes of Lycabettus rising at the end of the street. Climb or take the funicular for the best view in Athens, with the Acropolis below and the sea beyond.
The National Archaeological Museum, the greatest collection of ancient Greek art in the world, is a short walk away. The Acropolis, its museum and the lanes of Plaka are a pleasant walk or a short taxi ride. Atelier Dionysiou was chosen so that guests could come home from all of it to a quiet balcony and a neighbourhood that feels like their own.
There is a balcony overlooking the street, great for morning coffee or nightcap.
Four bedrooms, marble baths and wraparound balconies in the city’s creative quarter.
Exarchia
A much-loved Exarchia mezedopoleio: shared plates, traditional Greek flavours and a charming garden. The relaxed dinner with real neighbourhood atmosphere.
Central Athens
A wine bar and restaurant known for wood-fire cooking and natural wines, with a contemporary Athens mood. For couples, food lovers and a stylish evening out.
We have no photograph of our own for this entry, so the crest stands in its place.
Valtetsiou Street, Exarchia
A cosy taverna-style restaurant on one of Exarchia’s liveliest streets, with Greek and Mediterranean cooking. Good for groups and for avoiding the tourist-heavy districts.
We have no photograph of our own for this entry, so the crest stands in its place.
Exarchia
A modern Greek taverna with a garden and a thoughtful take on regional cooking. A calmer neighbourhood dinner for couples and small groups.
Patission Street, a short walk
Greece’s largest museum and the most important collection of ancient Greek art anywhere: the Mask of Agamemnon, the Antikythera mechanism, the bronze Poseidon. Close enough to the apartment to visit in two shorter sittings.
Neapoli and Kolonaki
The highest point in central Athens, with the Acropolis below and the sea beyond. Walk up through the pines or take the funicular from Kolonaki, and go at sunset.
Tell us where and when. We check the calendar ourselves and reply with availability and a written quote, usually within a day.
