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The view from the garden over Bassano in Teverina’s rooftops and bell tower to the wooded Tiber Valley beyond.

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Tuscia, northern Lazio · Italy

Lazio

Hill towns, gardens and long lunches an hour from Rome.

Tuscia is the quiet corner of Lazio between Rome and Umbria: tufa-stone villages, Renaissance gardens, thermal springs and a lake with its own islands. It rewards the traveller who stays put and lets the days fill themselves.

Bassano in Teverina sits on a spur above the Tiber Valley, a village of stone lanes and stepped alleys that climbs to a medieval tower. It is small enough that the baker knows you by the second morning, and close enough to Orte station that Rome is an easy day out and an easy return.

The countryside around it is one of Italy’s least crowded. Within an hour are the stone monsters of Bomarzo, the water gardens of Villa Lante, the improbable hilltop of Civita di Bagnoregio, the cathedral at Orvieto and the shore of Lake Bolsena. The hot springs outside Viterbo have been in use since Roman times.

This is a place for wine with lunch, a walk before dinner, and a soak in the hot tub when the valley fills with evening mist. Two Sisters Villa was chosen because it belongs to the village rather than standing apart from it.

We roasted marshmallows in the fire pit and enjoyed the delightful Italian scenery in the evenings.

Margaret T., guest at Two Sisters Villa · Google

Getting there

  • Fly to Rome Fiumicino or Ciampino; the drive north to Bassano in Teverina takes around an hour and a quarter.
  • By rail, Orte station is a short drive from the village and has fast connections to Rome, Florence and the north.
  • A car is recommended for exploring the surrounding hill towns and countryside.
The villa’s teal-painted gate set into a whitewashed stone wall, with potted geraniums on the steps leading up to it.
Stay here

Two Sisters Villa

A stone cottage above the Tiber Valley, an hour from Rome.

From our guide

Where we send our guests.

Tables laid with yellow cloths in a traditional dining room, bentwood chairs pushed in.

Bassano in Teverina

Borgo Antico

A refined osteria in the old village, for the evening you want to remember. Regional cooking, a proper wine list, and the stone-walled atmosphere of Bassano itself. Best for couples and small groups who care about food.

The Totin family crest: a shield with a dragon, rabbit, mouse and snake around an anchor, within a laurel wreath, above the motto Hereditas et Hospitalitas

We have no photograph of our own for this entry, so the crest stands in its place.

Bassano in Teverina

La Fenice

The easy local choice: a restaurant and pizzeria close to the villa for relaxed Italian meals after a day out. Good with children, good with a group, no fuss.

The Totin family crest: a shield with a dragon, rabbit, mouse and snake around an anchor, within a laurel wreath, above the motto Hereditas et Hospitalitas

We have no photograph of our own for this entry, so the crest stands in its place.

Bassano in Teverina

Osteria Belvedere

An atmospheric dinner in the old stone heart of the village. Quiet, characterful and suited to a slow countryside evening, particularly for two.

A bowl of pasta finished with grated cheese and black pepper, photographed on a restaurant table.

Bassano in Teverina

A Casa di Ale

Informal and friendly, a short walk from the villa. The place for an easy lunch or a casual dinner when nobody wants to drive.

The stone dragon of the Sacro Bosco at Bomarzo, carved mid-struggle with hounds, weathered and moss-covered.

Bomarzo

Sacro Bosco, the Park of the Monsters

A sixteenth-century garden of giant stone creatures, tilting houses and mythological figures scattered through shaded woodland. Strange, wonderful and one of the best family outings anywhere near the villa.

The stepped approach to a hilltop village, with cypresses and a stone parapet against a grey sky.

Bagnoregio

Civita di Bagnoregio

A village on an eroding pinnacle of tufa, reached only by a long pedestrian bridge. Go early or late for the light, and wander the lanes slowly; there are very few of them, and that is the point.

Around the area

Lazio, in pictures.

A vast carved stone face, its mouth wide open, half hidden by trees in the Sacro Bosco at Bomarzo.
The striped facade of Orvieto Cathedral, its gables set with gold mosaics, seen from the piazza.
Breakfast things and a linen throw on the portico table, with the garden and valley in soft morning light behind.
Low cloud filling the Tiber Valley at dawn, seen from the terrace with the village rooftops in silhouette.
A narrow stone lane in Bassano in Teverina, climbing between tufa walls and shuttered houses.
Olive trees and scrub oak falling away below the villa, with hills stretching to the horizon under an open sky.
Book direct

Stay in Lazio.

Tell us where and when. We check the calendar ourselves and reply with availability and a written quote, usually within a day.